Darwin reported encountering a pair of giant
tortoises feeding on cactus during his first
landing here in 1835. Today the airport of
this easternmost island in the chain is increasingly
used as the arrival point for flights into
and out of the Galapagos. The administrative
capital for the province is Puerto Baquerizo
Moreno on the southwestern shore, and in
1998 the Galapagos National Park Visitor
Centre opened for the benefit of islanders
and travelers alike, presenting a comprehensive
exhibit of the islands' natural history, human interaction, ecosystems, flora
and fauna. It is also the place where cultural
activities take place, including theatre,
exhibitions and workshops. From the Interpretation Center, a short trail arrives at Frigate Bird Hill,
where both "magnificent-frigates"
and "great-frigates" can be seen
in the same colony—ideal for learning
to distinguish the two bird species. A 45-minute
bus ride from town takes you to one of the
few permanent fresh water lakes in the islands.
Its location in the highlands of San Cristobal
(2,300 feet or 700 meters) ensures our passage
through a variety of vegetation zones. The
lake offers a panoramic setting for exceptional
bird watching.
Heading up the coast from Wreck Bay and Puerto
Baquerizo, you will see Isla Lobos across a small channel off the coast of San
Cristobal. This basalt island outcropping
lives up to its name of "Sea Lion Island"
with its noisy population of frolicking and
barking beasts. It is also a nesting place
for blue-footed boobies and an excellent
spot for snorkeling.
Leon Dormido, also know as Kicker Rock, is
a spectacular formation that rises 152 meters
(500 feet) out of the Pacific. It takes the
form of a sleeping lion, but from another
angle you can see that the rock is split,
forming a colossal tablet and, piercing the
sea, a great chisel ready for etching. Small
vessels can navigate through the narrow channel
between the rocks.
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